This charger, like it's predecessor, charges at a rate that, in my opinion is too high for the LiPo batteries (0.3A stated, 0.25A measured). The nice thing about the Celectra is that the charge rates can be adjusted between 0.1A and 0.3A for each port by adjusting the pot switches inside the unit (see photo). The inside of the unit can be accessed by removing the 8 small screws from the bottom of the unit (6 inside the battery compartment, and 2 under the rubber feet on the bottom like it's predecessor).
The connectors can be purchased separately, or you can salvage them from other places (i.e. the female end can be salvaged from an old single port charger and the male end can be salvaged from a dead battery). Once the adapters have been made, plug the male end into one of the charger ports, plug the battery into the female adapter, choose the current setting on your meter and adjust the pot to the desired current.
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So far, the only thing that I have broken is the landing gear. What I have found is that glue does not stick to this plastic very well so I repaired it by wrapping the broken area with cotton thread and soaking it in CA then adding accelerator. This seems to be making a pretty good bond for now.
1S 3.7V LiPo Charger, 0.3A (this charger came with my mCX) The only real downside that I can find to the Blade mCX is the included charger. It is powered by four AA batteries which are used to charge the 110mAh flight battery. I have made the following modifications to allow the charger to be used as an adapter in conjunction with another LiPo capable charger.
CAUTION
When using the charger as an adapter with another charger, remove the AA batteries first. I have not tested to see if this causes a problem or not, so it is just a precaution until verified. I saw a tool like this at my LHS, but as usual, it was for the larger helis so I had to adapt for the smaller helis that I fly.
Once again, there are not any tools for the micro size helis, so I adapted the smallest pitch gauge I could find to accommodate the main blades of my Gaui Hurricane 200. I had some sheet styrene on hand so I layered multiple pieces together with plastic model cement and cut to fit the leading edge of the tool and viola! It now accommodates my Gaui main blades.
I have been toying around with a mount option for the DD setup and have come up with a very inexpensive solution. Two pieces of styrene tube from a local hobby shop. One great feature that I didn't plan on is that the mount does not need to be glued on to the tail boom. It fits snugly without the use of CA, so it can be removed in the event that you need to replace your tail boom.
The larger tube is 1/2" O.D. and has an I.D. just slightly smaller than the Pro/GWS motor O.D. By cutting the tube longitudinally, the expansion of the tube allows the motor to fit snugly without the use of straps, screws or glue. The smaller 1/4" O.D. tube is trimmed to accommodate the larger 1/2" tube and is cemented together with plastic cement. To further reinforce the joint, I have added a fillet of medium CA and sprayed with accelerator for further strength. The tubing I purchased was white and I have painted it black. The weight (with paint) is approximately 1g. I am using a GWS 3.0 x 2.0 propeller which has been painted black. This tool is suitable for micro models such as the Ikarus Piccolo, Century Hummingbird, FEDA Dragonfly, Gaui Hurricane, T-Rex 250, and others. It will easily fit the small size of the ball links on micro helicopters.
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Dan BlanchardThis is my collection of tips, tricks, and projects that I have made over the years while enjoying my various hobbies. Categories
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