So I've completed the repairs to my VCS and now ready to bring it into the 21st century by installing a composite video modification and removing the antiquated RF system. Once again, I found a good video on the topic from ArcadeUSA where I got the information on where to purchase the parts. I purchased the parts kit from Vintage Gaming and More! but through their Ebay outlet which saved me a few bucks. The kit is $12.99 + $2.00 shipping directly from their site, but I found it on Ebay for $9.99 and free shipping (plus I had a $3.00 coupon somehow so I got it for a total of $6.99 shipped). In case you haven't ready my prior post titled Atari 2600 (VCS) Repairs, my unit is a 'Light Sixer' unit which has 2 boards and the following instructions are for this unit only (the 4-switch units have only 1 board and are similar but have components in different locations). Just like my last blog, My instructions assume that anyone attempting this repair knows how to remove the boards from the case so I will not go into that here. I am also assuming basic soldering/de-soldering skills. Main board modificationsModification #1 - Remove the transistor at location Q202. This can be done by either cutting the transistor right off the board or de-soldering it. Modification #2 - Remove the resistor at location R213. Like the transistor, this can be done by either cutting the transistor right off the board or de-soldering it. switch board modificationsModificaton #1 - Remove the RF modulator circuit board. Optionally you can remove the entire RF modulator assembly as I did. This makes for a cleaner modification and allows space for the new modification board. The important thing is that you remove the 5 pins of the RF modulator circuit board from the switch board. These pins can be cut or de-soldered but note that 3 of the 5 holes will need to be open to install the modification parts. If you opt for the de-solder method, note that intermediate de-soldering techniques will be needed. Composite video circuit board
After the components are soldered to the board, it is time to solder the wires to the board. The kit comes with 2 short lengths of 4-conductor wire. Pull the yellow wire out of one of the sheathings to make it a 3-conductor. Next, layout the assembled board and determine where it will be mounted so you can determine wire lengths. Following is a picture of how I mounted mine. 4-conductor wire installation - the switch board end of the wire will be installed in 3 of the 5 holes previously occupied by the RF Modulator Circuit Board. If looking from the top down, the wires will be installed in holes 1 (black), 3 (red), and 4 (blue). The 4th, yellow wire will be soldered to the bottom of the main board in an open hole connected to C210. The reason it has to be installed from the bottom is due to the way the metal case fits on the main board. A small notch will have to be made on the bottom of the metal case to allow access for the yellow wire (see picture). I used a rat-tail file to accomplish this, but a Dremel tool would work as well. Make sure there are no sharp edges otherwise future shorting may occur. 3-conductor wire installation - before the wire installation, 3 holes need to be drilled into the rear of the housing. To do this, I recommend a stepped drill bit since they tend to work better on thin materials such as the 2600 housing. I chose an installation location just above where the original RF cable exited the housing. The best way I have found to get equal and level spacing for the holes is to place a piece of masking tape where the holes are to be drilled and carefully mark the hole locations. I spaced them 2 cm apart to allow room for the cable ends to install without interference. Before installing the RCA jacks, I suggest measuring and soldering the black wire to the 3 solder rings. This can be done after installation, but proves to be a bit more difficult since they are right next to the plastic and quite a bit of heat is required to solder these. Once the solder rings are done, install each of the jacks with the solder ring going on first, then the lock washer, then the nut. Now solder the red wire to the red and white (audio) jacks and solder the blue wire to the yellow (video) jack. summaryNow put it all back in the case and enjoy. In the end, I spent a total of $57.85 to get a working Atari 2600, plus learned some new skills along the way.
I already had some joysticks and paddle controllers from another project (blog coming soon) and had also picked up a Combat cartridge at an arcade expo for $2 so now I guess it is time to start collecting cartridges of my favorite games!
1 Comment
Don B.
3/22/2020 18:12:34
You guys have done a fantastic job restoring these old electronic games ,Dan I think you missed your calling ,there's a lot of talent that goes into restoring these, you and Daniel have done a great job, I personally never owned any of these games I am sure they were a lot of fun Don.
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Dan BlanchardThis is my collection of tips, tricks, and projects that I have made over the years while enjoying my various hobbies. Categories
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